Chili, originally grown in Latin America and "discovered" by the European invaders during the 15th and 16th centuries, is probably one of the most widespread ingredients in the world. It seems that a myriad of different chili "peppers" are cultivated and used pretty much everywhere in the world. (Though chili is often called a pepper, the two species aren't related.) Japan is not an exception; since the introduction of the red chili in the late 16th century, the spicy fruit has become an indispensable part of the Japanese traditional cuisine. According to an Wikipedia article, soon after its introduction to Japan, chili replaced black peppers, which had been introduced from Persia via China and widely used as the source of spicy heat. The fact that black peppers were more commonly used for seasoning udon noodles seem rather odd to the modern Japanese ears, because we're now so used to using chili for that purpose that using black pepper in udon almost sounds exotic and innovative.

Red chili gave rise to a very popular spice mix, "shichimi to-garashi." "Shichimi" means "seven flavors," while "to-garashi" means "foreign spicy stuff." In a culinary tradition that doesn't have too many other spice mixes, shichimi (as it's often called) is a curiosity. Because red chili was imported as a medicine, the shichimi was born in a pharmaceutical district of Tokyo called Yagenbori. ("Yagen" is a mortar that apothecaries used to grind medicinal herbs and spices.) In 1625, an apothecary mixed red chili with Szechuan peppers, mandarin orange peels, black sesame, poppy seeds, etc., all of which had purported medicinal value, to create a condiment with a health appeal. Thus created, shicnimi became a mainstay in the urban Edo culture where people sprinkled it generously in their soba noodles for an extra kick. I use shichimi in miso soup, especially when it contains chicken or pork; on soba and udon; and most frequently on kimpira veggies.

Amazingly enough, after nearly 400 years, the descendants of the original shichimi maker are still in the same business in Asakusa district of Tokyo. Their spice store, Yagenbori Nakajima Shoten, is considered to be one of the three most revered shichimi producers in Japan. Unfortunately, most people, including myself, rely on national brands like S&B, photographed above, for everyday use, but the flavors and aromas are much stronger in the freshly ground and freshly mixed shichimi sold at traditional shichimi stores.

When Patrick and I visited Sanja Matsuri (a huge, energetic festival in Asakusa) last year, we saw a stall selling the traditional shichimi. With boxes of colorful ingredients--red chili, golden sesame seeds, green nori and so on--and the old vendor guy in a traditional artisan outfit, the stall made me feel as if I'd slipped into the bustling streets of Edo, 300 years ago. The wonderful thing about these traditional stores and stalls is that you can have them make your shichimi according to your own taste. If you want it more citrusy, they'll add more orange peel. If you like heat, they'll increase the ratio of red chili. Furthermore, each store has its own recipe: Yawataya Isogoro in Nagano prefecture, for example, uses ginger and shiso, which gives their mix a refreshing fragrance. I believe there is a permanent stand along the Nakamise mall that leads up to the Asakusa Temple (Senso-ji), so if you'd like a taste of traditional Japanese spice mix, and happen to be in Japan, check out that store. Otherwise, shicnimi is available in small jars at Japanese grocery stores, and many of the Asian grocers as well.